MY LIFE 1.0 BY GATIEN DELAHAYLE
For years, surfing was my career. I traveled the world chasing contests, results, and rankings. But everything changed when my daughter was born.
Becoming a father completely shifted my perspective. For the first time in a long time, I’m reconnecting with who I truly am and with the pure love I’ve always had for surfing. These days, I’m traveling with my family around Tahiti and working on a video project that’s really close to my heart.
Two days ago, my friend Makai Macnamara sent me a message: “Bro, take the first ferry tomorrow. This wave in the islands is going to be pumping.” Honestly, it wasn’t in my plans at all. We had things to do as a family, but at 3 a.m. I couldn’t sleep. I just kept thinking about that wave and the possibility of scoring perfect conditions.
By 6 a.m., I turned to my partner and said, “I’m sorry, my love. I love you and our daughter with all my heart, but I have to go.”
So I grabbed one board, my backpack, jumped on the ferry, and spent the entire day scoring waves. By the evening, I caught the last ferry back to Tahiti and made it home just in time to be with my girls again.
That’s what surfing means to me now. It’s no longer about results or proving anything. It’s about staying connected to what I love, following my instincts, and sharing this journey with the people who matter most.